Autumn idyll in the Balkans – Glozhene Monastery, Tsarichina, and Mount Vezhen
While proofreading and editing today's photo gallery, I can hardly believe the journey actually happened, and so recently...
The COVID-19 nightmare has faded, passed, and just as I was about to resume my life from where it was interrupted... Things are getting scarier and more hopeless. And it's ongoing, with no end in sight...
Wars, threats, division in our society – how is there not a single unifying, but always Pro и against.
Therefore, let us enjoy a not-so-distant experience with the hope that we will soon breathe freely, healthily, and deeply once again. As humans.
A fairy-tale colorful adventure happened to me late in the autumn season, more precisely at the end of October. I will share it with you in frames and text. I make no claim for a complete match between photos and words, because the thought races, and a photograph sometimes stands on its own, without commentary...
Enough with the introduction, or the foreword, as we were taught to call it!
The Glozhene Monastery – a stronghold above the Teteven Balkan Mountains
Our organized route begins from Glozhene, in the Teteven region, and the monastery of the same name. There is another village in Bulgaria with this name, in the Vratsa region... I have always been amazed by the many identical names of settlements in our homeland... For example, do you know that there are at least 24 villages named Banya?!
And so – the monastery can be seen from afar, as if perched on a rock. Unlike other Bulgarian monasteries built in hidden, secluded places.
The Glozhene Monastery seems to „stand out“ from everywhere and afar.
It is located on a slope, beneath the stone precipices of Kamen Lisets peak, at 1,073 m a.s.l., on a rock outcrop of a mountain ridge.
The approach to the monastery entrance was blocked by rocks, which were later cut through to make a road, and deep ravines descend from its other sides.
The view in all directions is remarkable.
To me, it looks like a stronghold boldly defending its purpose.
His story is a long one—according to legend, it was founded in the early 13th century. The plaque at the entrance clearly indicates its age.
Reconstructed in the 15th–16th and 18th centuries, it has been preserved and was not destroyed precisely because of its inaccessible location.
Vasil Levski and Vasil Drumev
I will mention two interesting facts: during the national liberation struggles, the monastery was one of Vasil Levski's refuges. The Apostle's hiding place has been preserved – according to reports, there was an underground passage beneath his cell. Levski's visits were kept in the deepest secrecy.
The other interesting circumstance: after the Liberation, the writer Vasil Drumev, with the monastic name Kliment, was exiled here. Let us remember: a Bulgarian writer, clergyman, and politician. He is the author of our first novella, „The Unfortunate Family“, and the first dramatic play with an original plot, „Ivanku, the Murderer of Asen I“. After the Liberation, he was Metropolitan of the Tarnovo eparchy and twice Prime Minister of Bulgaria.
In 1893, Metropolitan Clement was sent into exile in the Glozhene Monastery. His exile ended with the fall of Stefan Stambolov's government. Now in the monastery there is a small museum dedicated to Drumev.
The modern appearance of the monastery takes shape after the destruction of the old monastic church and tower and the construction of a new temple. One of the architects who reconstructed the complex claims that the old church was at least 700 years old.
The construction is unique, built upon and from the surrounding rocks.
And the view from the fortress is incredible, especially in clear weather.
Tsarichina Reserve – an autumn fairy tale in the Balkan Mountains
Back in the van and on to „Tsarichina“ – one of the reserves in the Central Balkan National Park and certainly the most charming in autumn!
We set off from Ribaritsa. Just before that, our leaders find out that the hut warden has broken his leg and there is nothing up there except tea. Therefore, we stop at a small shop right before the trail. I am horrified. How am I going to lug food for two days?!
I learn that rakia is mandatory. I look around and „select“ a young, strapping lad with the look of a computer geek and strike a deal: he carries the heavy luggage—two bottles of rakia of his choosing and all the food—and in exchange, he gets one of the bottles and a piece of lukanka as a „sherpa's fee.“ Now I can continue upwards.
The climb is steep and hard. With a backpack on my back. I specially bought an 80-liter backpack and naturally stuffed it with all kinds of unnecessary things... At least the young man is carrying the food.
But the forest we are walking through is incredible and the effort is worth it. For the day, we overcome an elevation gain of around 900 m. Very steep in places.
The Avens and the Legend of Tamara
Why is the „Tsarichina“ reserve called that? Do you know? There is a unique flower – avens, colloquially, with the Latin name Geum bulgaricum.
A legend tells of him: the daughter of Tsar Ivan Asen II, Tamara, fell ill with a treacherous disease one spring. Her father sent her for treatment in the Teteven Balkans.
Spring brought beauty: everything turned green, birds began to sing, the snow melted, and streams began to babble. All the meadows were filled with flowers. She wandered around, gathering bouquets and weaving wreaths. But she liked a fiery red flower the most, which the locals called „amaynichesto“ (avens). Legend had it that if a young man saw a maiden with the crimson flower tucked in her hair... The flower bewitches the young man and he falls in love.
Tamara picked a flower and tucked it behind her ear. The princess did not find love, but by autumn she had recovered and left this fairy-tale place where her favorite flower grew. People believed that it had healed her and in her honor named it the „royal flower,“ and the area with the meadows where it blooms to this day is called „Tsarichina“.
I just want to add that over 600 plant species are protected in the reserve. Among them, there are also rare and protected species.
Imperceptibly, amidst the autumn-toned forests, we reach a clearing entirely covered in frost. The overgrown grass is at least a meter tall.
Echo Hut and Yumruka Peak
A little more and we'll reach the ridge of Stara Planina and find ourselves at the most cosmic hut in the Balkan mountains – the Ruse „pearl“ Echo! 🙂 Cosmic is true, as for the „pearl“, not so much...
The hut is located on the very ridge of the Balkan Mountains, between the peaks of Kavladan and Yumruka. Some of the most beautiful views in the Balkan range can be seen from the meadow.
We left our luggage and a few of us decided to „pop over“ in the late afternoon for a warm-up to the majestic Yumruka Peak!
We started heading up. Halfway there, a combat group of 70-somethings overtook us. They cheerfully wished us, „Enjoy your walk.“ We were „dragging ourselves“ up. We reached the chapel, then decided to take some pictures.
Finally, out of breath, we „conquered“ the summit. The views from there are unforgettable! The guidebooks say that on a clear day, you can see 70% in Bulgaria from Yumruka. Well, it was already getting dark by the time we got there, but it was worth it.
And why is it called The Fist? Because from a distance, the rocks resemble a clenched human right hand.
Today we saw the spirited „youths“ again. They had stripped down to hero shirts and once again rushed toward the hut. Because rakiya time had arrived. We wished ourselves such „old age.“.
The day, filled with so many emotions, is coming to an end. In the dining room – a surprise: caring hands had prepared bean soup and mushroom soup, and fragrant herbal tea. Coupled with our supplies, it was practically a gala dinner.
And one lady turned out to have become a grandmother – from the other end of the world, beyond mountains and seas, a granddaughter was born to her. We drank to the health of the future female mountaineer.
A cold night in the mountains
For the Eho Hut – personally for me, it was a huge compromise to sleep there. Blankets – do you remember them from the days of the red-and-green Rhodope blankets?! Sheets: clean, but soaked with moisture and smelling of mold. Several rooms with bunk beds, nailed shut windows, without any ventilation... At 9 p.m. the generator is turned off and you get around with a flashlight. I had read that there is a room with 4 beds and a private bathroom, but alas, I didn't find one... So I resigned myself and tried to sleep with 16 other people.
I photographed a few enthusiasts who climbed up to the ridge to document the sunset, and maybe they even waited for the sunrise. I envied our guide Eddie, who slept outside. He carried a sleeping pad and a sleeping bag. At night, it gets down to minus 1–5 degrees...
Despite the sleepless, cold, and damp night, full of „sounds“ and „aromas,“ in the morning I got up cheerful and fresh, or as the Russians say—like a cucumber. Outside, the air was crystal clear and bitingly cold.
Along the ridge to Mount Vezhen
Sunday morning bathes us in a crimson sunrise on the ridge. All the hardships until now have been worth it…
Warmed up, we are now embarking on a magical walk along the Stara Planina ridge and conquering magnificent panoramic peaks to find ourselves at noon on the brow of one of the most respectable giants of the Balkan – Mount Vezhen!
What's more, it has two heads. Hurrah: 2198 m a.s.l.!
The landscape is: withered grasses and beautiful views. It is as if you are above the mountain, drifting over ridges, mountain spurs, meadows, and forests – as far as the eye can see... And horses. Yes, grazing freely.
We are lucky. At this time, they say the Balkan Mountains are shrouded in fog... And we were between heaven and... heaven. Above us and below us, sparse, fluffy clouds were rolling. And the gaze swept over the view: on one side Northern, and on the other Southern Bulgaria. Like the palm of one's hand.
There was no mobile reception, I was going to call a colleague in Ruse to tell him I could see him... And he would reply, „Where have you gone off into the woods?!“
A black dog set off with us from the hut. Several times we tried to send it back, but it adopted us and led us all the way to Ribaritza. It clearly knew the route well.
Here we are with our tour guide Delyana Hadzhiivanova. Next came the long-awaited descent to Vezhen Hut.
The descent to Vezhen Hut„
After the group split into two: the stronger ones along the steep path with a guide Eduard Blagoev – Edi, and the weaker ones on the rope course. But what the criterion is, wasn't clear to me.
For some reason I ended up with the stronger ones. I hardly saw any marked trail… I guess we just went „downhill“…
Dwarf mountain pines, blueberries, steep slopes. Good thing we had trekking poles, we would have broken our legs. It was absurd, risky, and full of unnecessary adrenaline.
To compensate for the extreme descent, we „grazed“ on blueberries. I had never seen so many... We literally squashed them on the precipitous steep slopes.
On Vezhen Hut„ The two groups gathered together.
The second hut is downright luxurious. And it is managed with passion and flair. Here we rested and drank a wonderful mountain tea, local harvest.
Having gathered our strength, we set off along beaten paths with a well-marked route, then along a dirt road, and finally an asphalt one, until we reached the minibus.
Very long. It felt endless. Exhausting. You walk, stride, march. You’ve talked about everything, looked around, and all you want to do is stretch your legs…
Here are the first houses of Ribaritza!
It was a glorious day.
The picturesque autumn fairy tale in the proud Balkan has come to an end – a harsh, difficult, and wild mountain. But it let us in, shared lush colors, murmuring streams… and silence.
And we are grateful to her.
See more for the author Maria Radeva here.
