Colombia: Terra Incognita

The Cathedral of Bogota
August 4, 2026
Author: Katia Via
Katia Via's first encounter with Colombia – Bogotá, the Underground Cathedral in Zipaquirá, and the colonial charm of Villa de Leyva

Gabriel García Márquez… Shakira… Pablo Escobar… Botero… Juanes…

Names known all over the world, each leaving its mark in literature, music, art, or history.

Each of us has heard of at least a few of these personalities who have conquered the world in their own way.

I am leaving for Colombia at a time when the coronavirus is still a mystery – something distant, vague, and seemingly temporary. Only one case has been registered in the country, and people are still living almost carefree. From time to time we put on masks, more out of caution than out of real fear.

First impressions of Bogotá

Bogota welcomed us in the dark. It is the first time I have been to an airport where there is not enough local currency for exchange.

After a short break at the hotel, we are now ready to meet a new culture and see what awaits us.
The hotel turns out to be in a neighborhood whose architecture makes me feel like I am in the Netherlands. 

The entire city is saturated with red brick buildings, a distinctive feature of Colombian architecture.
Tall residential buildings climb the steep hills. They stand like giants, embedded in the rocks.
As we leave the city, we also see the inevitable poor neighborhoods. Some of them, however, are dotted with bright colors and impressive graffiti.

Will beauty save the world?

Colorful neighborhood in Bogota with a European vibe

The Underground Cathedral in Zipaquirá

We’re heading to the attraction that over 90% of Colombians rank as the number one in the country—the Underground Cathedral, built in a former salt mine near the town of Zipaquirá.
In the past, miners used to pray in front of small altars every day before going down into the mine – a dangerous place from which not everyone returned.

Right at the entrance, we are greeted by an impressive light installation featuring the flags of various countries. Just as we pass beneath it, the Bulgarian flag shines brightly before us.

Excited, we continue deeper.
The endless corridors begin with fourteen small chapels, recreating Christ's path to Golgotha – from the Garden of Gethsemane to His placement in the tomb.

The cathedral itself is located at the end of the labyrinth of tunnels and can hold about 8,400 people.
The huge cross at the back looks protruding, but when you get closer, you realize that it is actually carved into the rock – an impressive optical and architectural illusion.

The Underground Cathedral in Zipaquirá

Villa de Leyva – a city where time has stopped

Our next stop impresses us in an entirely different way – the Clay House in Villa de Leyva, created entirely from clay by local architect Octavio Mendoza.

Not a single other construction material was used.
Initially, the architect intended to live in it, but after fifteen years of construction, the house turned into a museum.

I feel like I'm walking through a Gaudí artwork or a Flintstones set.

The Clay House in Villa de Leyva

After this latest Colombian miracle, we find ourselves in the center of Villa de Leyva, where the largest square in Colombia is located.

The small town is a wonderful place for a short walk and a well-deserved rest after such strong impressions. Among the souvenirs, we also find impressive life-sized porcelain figures dedicated to Day of the Dead.

The central square of Villa de Leyva

Meeting with Bogota

The next day begins with a tour of Bogota.
On the buses, people look at us with curiosity. One elderly man even stands up to give us his seat. We politely decline, but this small gesture makes us feel like guests of an exceptionally hospitable people.

We are walking through the city, filled with people, history, and graffiti.

We rush between the Gold Museum and the Botero Museum because we realize that as early as the next day, most tourist attractions will close due to the approaching pandemic.

We are exploring the central part of the city, its squares and sights.
We are also trying one of the traditional Colombian soups - with potatoes, meat, and corn. Simple, but delicious.

However, this is only the beginning of our journey through Colombia.

Colorful house in Bogota

To be continued.
See more travelogues by Catia Via:

Christmas in Australia

Along the Romantic Road in Germany

Check out the rest of the photos in the gallery

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