We are continuing one of the most impressive mountain adventures in Bulgaria: the Kom–Emine trek on foot along the ridge of the Balkan Mountains. In the second part, Ani Orzova tells about days filled with long kilometers, rain, storms, panoramic views, Old Mountain peaks, and those moments when a person merges with the rhythm of the mountain.
If you missed the first part – Now is the time to read it here.
Day 4. Time stops
We got up in the dark again and headed towards Bigla peak.
Through a fantastic beech forest we descended to Beleva polyana and the hunting blind above the village of Litakovo, where we stopped for breakfast.
We quenched our thirst at the Mechulitsa fountain and continued towards the Pogledets saddle – the natural boundary between Golema Planina and the Murgash massif.
Shortly before the hill for Zla Polyana, we took a lunch break with the stuffed peppers left over from the previous day. Afterward, we set off on the long descent toward the Vitinya Pass.
The road seemed to have no end. But when friends from different countries walk beside you and conversations shift from life to music, the miles melt away unnoticed.
During the day we walked 38 kilometers.
In the evening, inspiration visited me again, and these lines appeared in my diary:
„On long treks, there comes a moment when you stop counting the days and even forget what day of the week it is. Everyday problems simply vanish.
Your mind empties of the usual thoughts.
Your body is slowly getting used to the new rhythm.“
„Only the green mountain and the blue sky remain, and the road is before you. The only thing you need to do is walk and not stop. Step by step. Peak after peak.
At one point, even names and words cease to matter. When you listen closely to the voice of the mountain, you begin to see even the smallest miracles. Your companions become the pink dawn, the darkened valleys, the fragrant forest herbs, the white rocks, the scattered branches, the clear streams, the old fountains, the wondrous trees, the colorful butterflies, the raindrops, and the wild horses.
The fog swallows you.
You merge with the wind.
I feel how the clouds are flying.
You wake up to the song of the birds.
You fall asleep to the voices of crickets.
Thousands of stars are winking at you from the infinity.
Everything becomes ONE...“
Day 5. From Vitinya to Svrishtite – 42 km along the ridge of the mountain
We set off in the dark past the Vitinya hunting lodge – silent, sleepy, and still stiff.
We would wake up together with the forest, boiling with life. We illuminated our path with headlamps, while the dense wall of darkness enveloped us all around. From a distance, we looked like a colony of disciplined fireflies slowly threading their way between the trees.
The day imperceptibly crept out from under the low lace clouds and overtook us just as we reached the Arabakonak Pass for breakfast.
Here we left behind the Murgash massif and entered the depths of the Etropole Balkan Mountains. After a short break, we set off once again along the endless steep forest paths.
We replenished our water supplies from the slow-flowing fountain near the Sturgel dairy farm before climbing the ridge and continuing through the forest, skirting the southern slopes of Mount Zvezdets.
The mountain is completely different during the rain
The feeling of the road also changes.
Right before we came out onto the open ridge below Etropolska Baba peak, the clouds gathered over our heads and it started to rain.
The colorful raincoats hid us and our backpacks. Like a colorful herd, we continued toward the Monument to the Russian Soldiers in the Hadzhiytsa locality. We paid tribute to those who had walked this path before us and headed even higher.
It is strange how in the mountains the rain makes you fall silent and look even deeper into yourself.
He is like a mirror of the soul.
Cutting across Etropolski Baba, the sun smiled at us once again. The wind chased away the clouds, and over the next few hours we enjoyed the flat road and beautiful views.
To the south, views of the Sredna Gora mountains and the Pirdop basin unfolded, while to the north, the „Elatsite“ mine was clearly visible, gradually altering the shape of the mountain.
We were walking along the upper timberline. To the right stood rows of beautiful Bosnian pines, transitioning into fields of juniper and bilberries.
I wondered why the dwarf mountain pine is missing from this part of the Balkan Mountains. It turned out that it has survived only in the „Tsarichina“ Reserve. Over the centuries, the coniferous forests here have been heavily influenced by human activity, and the natural habitats of the dwarf mountain pine have gradually disappeared.
Unlike the Siberian juniper, the dwarf pine is part of the native vegetation, but it has significantly higher climate and soil requirements. Therefore, it has easily been displaced by secondary plant communities such as juniper and fescue.
The afternoon sun beat down strongly, and we gratefully welcomed the coolness of the deciduous forest as we descended toward Kashana.
The climb to the saddle before Mount Svrishtiflaz was slow and difficult. The fatigue from the previous days was already being felt, and the pace on this day was faster.
However, the reward was worth it – some of the most beautiful panoramic views along the route.
We rounded the peak and right then the storm clouds caught up with us. Lightning tore through the sky, it grew dark in seconds, and we left the ridge as fast as possible toward Svrisht plaz hut.
And this time luck was on our side – the storm remained raging behind us, and we reached the shelter on time.
Day 6. The Balkan Mountain Pony
Our day started early and brightly again. Another 37 kilometers along the ridge of the Balkan Mountains lay ahead of us.
Via the Koshishka col and Mount Koshitsa, we reached the „Planinski Izvori“ hut, while below us to the left remained the „Boatin“ Reserve – home to centuries-old beech forests and wild inhabitants.
Near my favorite fountain „The Five Spouts“ we took a short break.
The clear Balkan water constantly burbles, gurgles, and sings its song, and the wind carries it far away.
Behind us stretched the peak of Tetevenska Baba, the Anton Pass, Buluvanya Peak, the breathtaking Stara Planina Konche, and Vezhen Peak.
If anyone asks me which is the most beautiful day along the ridge of the Balkan Mountains, my answer is only one – this day.
The feeling is one of cleanliness, spaciousness, and freedom.
Like touching Heaven on Earth.
Rare sights for the eyes and true peace for the heart.
Natural theater of the elements.
The Blessing of the Balkan.
In the late afternoon, following the ridge towards Gorni Vetroviti Preslap and Prevala, the entire time we walked above the upper boundary of the Tsarichina Reserve.
The name of the fire-red flower avens, which the locals call „tsarichina,“ amazingly suits this reserve.
Due to the humid weather, we missed Yumruka peak, but we saw the beautiful Holy Trinity Chapel and managed to reach Eho Hut just before it started raining again.
Day 7. In the kingdom of edelweisses
You wake up at 05:00.
You are packing your bags.
You leave at exactly 06:00, when the first light reveals the incredible view of the valley.
At the entrance of the hut, a white edelweiss greets me.
We are heading towards Kozya stena.
We are entering the realm of edelweiss.
The fog is moving so fast that every successive view is different.
Sunrise finds us on the path
The first sunbeam slips through the ferns.
The dew has not yet lifted and after just a few steps our shoes are already wet. Even the gaiters barely manage to protect us over the next few hours.
After the ferns come fields of juniper, bilberries, and dew-drenched fescue grass. The millions of droplets upon them shine like tiny glass shards.
I don't have time to take pictures of them.
At Kozya Stena hut, homemade biscuit cake, mekitsi, and aromatic herbal tea are waiting for us.
Once again the rocky ridge and the edelweiss call us.
At Beklemeto the sun was with us for a long time and we managed to change our shoes for the rest of the route.
But the mountain had other intentions.
Dark clouds quickly covered the ridge and we were caught in a torrential summer rain.
The horses had already descended to the lowlands. Unlike us, they sense changes in atmospheric pressure.
In about an hour the sun came out again and dried our raincoats before we reached Dermenka hut.
There, at the entrance, after walking 27 kilometers, we were greeted by another edelweiss, and a little later – by an unforgettable sunset.
End of part two.
To be continued.
See more about the author Ani Orozova here
