From Cusco to the Amazon Jungle
Waking up in Cusco – on 3500 m altitude. We have almost „acclimatized“ to the thin air and high altitude. Today, however, we will head to the Amazon rainforest in Peru... where we will spend the last days of our long Peruvian adventure.
We are all terribly tired. Lots of impressions, transfers, incredible views. We are heading towards the heat, humidity, and mosquitoes. Another test for the body. At the end of our strength...
I just hope we return alive and well—that's all I'm thinking about.
After breakfast, we „load“ into taxis. Two or three to a car, because we already have excess luggage consisting of souvenirs and quirky little things...
The flight from Cusco – from the Andes to the Amazon
Traffic in Cusco is mind-blowing. We are constantly overtaking or catching up with one of the group's taxis as we follow alternative routes.
The airport is small and serves only domestic flights. A few days earlier Flor Ramos, our Peruvian tour guide, says that there have been plans for a larger airport for years, but according to her, „Lima is boycotting them.“ Obviously, so that Cusco doesn't take the bread out of Lima's mouth.
By the way, Cusco is not a big city – only about 300,000 people. In 20 years it has tripled. Strong competition for Lima.
We are waiting. The flight is delayed – which was somewhat expected.
Cuzco is a dangerous airport: it is located in a place with many and „tricky“ air currents, which cause flights to be delayed and sometimes even directly diverted. We felt it literally on our own backs. Only very experienced pilots land and take off from the airfield. It's like a funnel.
We are boarding a small airplane. Although extremely tired, I am so excited that I can't fall asleep… Plus, the views are incredible. Below us are the Andes. We are almost „touching the peaks.“.
Here is the Amazon.
Incredible. Spread out like the palm of your hand. Brown, enormous. Twisting like a serpentine snake, sunk in greenery and vapors…
Puerto Maldonado – Gateway to the Jungle
We are landing in Puerto Maldonado, in southeastern Peru. The city is the capital of the Madre de Dios region. Its population is about 80 thousand people. It was founded in 1902 and gained city status in 1985.
„Puerto“ means „port“, and Maldonado is a Spanish surname.
We took off wearing fleeces and several layers of clothing from Cusco – in the cool morning. We get off into hellish heat and stifling air. The air can be cut with a knife.
It turns out it hasn't rained for a few days, and the humidity portends rain. The application of sunscreen and mosquito repellent begins.
Heat, mosquitoes, and a first encounter with Puerto Maldonado
A group bus is waiting for us. We are riding through Puerto Maldonado, where cholo taxis—or „tuk-tuks,“ as they are called in Asia—and moto-taxis reign over the traffic. Motorbikes and scooters of every caliber, marked with license plates and driven by people wearing yellow helmets and high-visibility vests.
„The traffic “bosses" have their own lanes.
The buildings along the road are low and colorful. Palms and greenery peek out between them. I can't manage to see even a single grassy patch or lawn. I have the feeling that the city is one big, long, endless street.
We are stopping for a short break in the center of Puerto Maldonado. The company that will be in charge of us is located in a pedestrian zone. In the middle – trees, on the sides – benches, and buildings lined up in formation.
I read the tour operator's offers: there will be walking above the ground – in the treetops…
It strikes me the ad for the shamanic evening. One of our young men is showing curiosity, I'm joining to listen...
You drink some kind of brew and don't eat anything for 24 hours, and you go to a meeting with the shaman. He might record himself...
God, I hope nothing happens to him.
Exotic juices and a little common sense
We enter a small courtyard with lots of greenery. Something like a pastry shop. There are various types of ice cream and juices from exotic plants.
I'm getting some mineral water and deciding to try Brazilian nut juice – I don't like it and I'm giving it away.
Others try a coconut sap drink. The latter enjoys a mixed reception. For half the people it tastes like sprat juice, for the other half it is invigorating, refreshing.
I even think that I am very frivolously trying to embark on a food adventure. I am putting the brakes on myself immediately.
Hygiene, a friend, unfamiliar food – stop! Be careful!
Down the Madre de Dios River to the Amazon rainforest
We cross the village in the heat and reach the harbor.
Before our eyes, one of the tributaries of the Amazon is revealed – „Bmotherfucker“ – Madre de Dios.
„Only“ 1130 km long. It starts in Bolivia and is a tributary of the Madeira River. It ranks 18th in size among the rivers in the Amazon basin – or second to last.
For comparison with our tributary: Madeira is second on the list in length – 3,250 km. It also starts in Bolivia, passes through Brazil, and goes all the way to Peru.
Overall, the total length of the Amazon is from 6,259 to 6,712 km.
Well, quite impressive dimensions.
The river is brown and sluggish. Green banks stretch out on both sides of it. The vegetation is so dense that I cannot even imagine what might be hiding in it.
The first boat on the Madre de Dios River
We are riding in a thin, long boat. With a canopy.
They are arranging us very carefully: left, right. They even switched some people around—clearly, balance is important.
With a clear warning not to leave our seats so we wouldn't tip over...
The movement along the river creates a breeze that finally cools us down and disperses the heavy heat.
I am enjoying the place and the moment.
The jungle welcomes me
The Amazon jungle is around me, the sky above is blue, and the sun bathes me in all its love.
It's hot, stuffy, and humid, but I feel like the sun, the earth, and the jungle here are welcoming me with open arms. There is no hostility.
Perhaps this is the moment when I decide to accept that I am here as a guest and simply have to adapt to the conditions of the host – the jungle.
Later on, this will help me be almost in harmony with the abundance of sweat and bugs.
End of Part 1! To be continued.
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