San Agustín – The Mysteries of Ancient Colombia
If you missed the first part – you can read it here!
From Bogota we head to San Agustin, around which are some of the most important archaeological sites in South America.
They were left by a mysterious culture that inhabited these lands during the period from the 1st to the 8th century. Countless ceremonial and burial sites, as well as figures depicting people, animals, or unknown creatures, are scattered over a vast area.
We will hardly ever learn everything about the people who lived in these lands, but all the mysticism surrounding them makes this culture even more appealing.
Medellín – the city that changes
We are heading to the infamous Medellin. Shrouded in the spirit of the drug wars and their bloody aftermath, notoriously known by the name of Pablo Escobar, today Medellin has fortunately escaped this „glory.“.
Locals are reluctant to mention even the drug lord's name, but it seems to hang in the air.
The city is situated across the hills, just like Bogota, and is built up with both high-rise apartment blocks and slums.
Cable car cabins run across many of these hills, used as public transport regardless of the neighborhood, because the slopes are extremely steep and the areas are densely populated.
Botero Square – art that turns the city into a gallery
The beautiful center stands out with the impressive Botero Plaza. It evokes admiration not only with its atmosphere, but also with the sculptures of Fernando Botero – one of Colombia's most famous artists, born right here in Medellín.
The characteristic voluminous forms of his works are his trademark. His sculptures are globally recognized and extremely valuable, and their presence in the heart of Medellín turns the square into a unique open-air art gallery.
The building of the Palace of Culture is also interesting.
The Memorial Park for the Victims of Drug Trafficking
It is also worth visiting the green Plaza de las Luces. But for me, the most impactful was the memorial park dedicated to the victims of drug trafficking during the time of Pablo Escobar, whose official number is 46 612.
That is also the number of holes in the monument where anyone can place a flower.
You can't help getting chills!
Guatapé, the Cocora Valley, and an unforgettable farewell
Guatapé – the city of colors, shapes, and good mood
From Medellín we head to the colorful town of Guatapé: a place that seems created to fill the soul with colors, hues, and whimsical figures.
Along the way, we stop briefly to climb one of the most famous natural landmarks in Colombia – The Guatapé Rock (Piedra del Peñol)).
The huge granite monolith towers brightly against the surrounding landscape and reveals an impressive view of the endless greens
650 steps to a view that stays in memory
The 650 steps are conquered, and after them, the colorful Guatapé welcomes us with wonderful weather and mood.
Once upon a time, the figures on the houses, called „zócalos,“ told the story of their owners. Usually, the person lived on the second floor, and on the first floor was their small family business—a bakery, a tailoring workshop, a shoemaker's shop, or another craft establishment.
Today this connection no longer exists, but the wonderful mood continues to emanate from every building.
The colorful facades turn a walk through Guatapé into a true journey through art, history, and Colombian vibrancy.
Cocora Valley – Encounter with Colombia's Giant Wax Palms
From Guatapé we head to the place of my dreams – Cocora Valley, known for having the tallest palm trees in the world.
Here unique wax palms grow – the national symbol of Colombia, which can reach an incredible 60 meters in height.
The wax palm – an endangered symbol
Their leaves can reach up to 2 meters, and their trunk is covered with a thick layer of natural wax.
However, this very wax became the cause of the species' near-total extinction. For years, the palms were ruthlessly exploited for candle production, despite their immense importance to the country's nature and culture.
Today, the wax palm is protected and remains one of the most recognizable symbols of Colombia.
The fog, the rain, and the spirit of Colombia
I am not disappointed by the beauty of this valley. On the contrary—the fog and rain that accompany us only add even more mysticism and charm to the landscape.
However, the most memorable remains our local tour guide, whose ancestors are part of the country's indigenous population.
Besides the stories about the spirit of Colombia, he plays us „Indian“ tunes and seems to transport us to another world – far back in time, toward the traditions and the connection of the people with this land.
The Cocora Valley remains forever in my soul as my dearest memory of Colombia.
Colombia in the Shadow of COVID-19 – When Travel Became a Trial
Days of anxiety about the harvest lie ahead.
Visits to sites, cities, and places have been canceled. Under the threat of COVID-19, closures are gradually beginning, and our plans are changing with each passing day.
Our next visit is to a coffee farm, where we learn how much labor, effort, and skill are required until a small plant reaches our morning cup of coffee.
We understand that behind every sip lie years of care, knowledge, and tradition.
Cali, the salsa capital, which we failed to feel
We are making a quick visit to Cali, the city known as the capital of salsa. But there is no way for us to feel its true rhythm. The city, which usually doesn't sleep from dancing and music, has now grown quiet. Visits by groups of people to tourist attractions are not permitted, and restrictions are gradually shutting down life outdoors.
Cartagena de Indias - the iconic city without tourists
Cartagena de Indias welcomes us with a lockdown and a ban on leaving the hotel.
Fortunately, the hotel is also confused by this new and unfamiliar situation, and we manage to sneak out for a short walk.
We reach the empty beach and the old town, where people can be counted on the fingers of one hand.
The bonus is that we get to see this iconic place without tourists – just for us, even if only for a short while.
The last days in Colombia – between hope and uncertainty
Several days follow mostly in hotel rooms waiting for new flights and an answer to the most important question – will we manage to get home?
I'm skipping all the drama around coming home.
It was epic.
The situation was changing by the minute. The stress was immense, uncertainty was lurking, fear was gradually creeping in. Our Ministry of Foreign Affairs was not even reporting any Bulgarians in Colombia.
But time passed, and although in parts, with a previously changed schedule, we managed to reach Bogota.
I saw her again – just a few days after she was filled with people, tourists, and chatter. This time the city was quiet and empty.
Colombia – a journey that remained forever in my heart
Colombia, I didn't get to explore you the way we planned.
We didn't see the dreamed-of Botero Museum in Medellín. We didn't see Bogotá from above, nor its iconic graffiti streets or its underground „city“.
We missed a lot of places.
And yet, you will remain forever in my memories – with your vibrancy, beauty, and that strange feeling of uncertainty about the future, brought on by an unfamiliar virus.
I got home on a packed plane, through canceled flights and impending quarantine, but with one conviction:
One day Colombia will once again be filled with tourists, music, and chatter.
And then maybe I will come back.
End of the „Columbia“ adventure“
See more about the author Katia Via here
